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Mexiko 2009 & 2010 (2)

"07.12.2009
Regresé de DF. Tengo muchos cosas de hacer, faltan 2 semanas y 3 trabajos finales. Pero de todos modos se voy a ensenar unas fotos de alla. Si tengo tiempo voy a escribir unos textos también.


En la tarde en el Goethe Institut, el lugar del concierto.


En la primera fila


Breiti era el unico que fue a fuera con la gente después del concierto.


A dentro del edificio con Vom ...


... y Campino!


El proximo día el el museo de antropología


El calendario azteco


La calle Reforma: El angél y yo (Foto: Siri)


Un arbol de navidad gigante al lado de una palma.(Foto: Siri)


Un set para un película (Foto: José Fernando)


En el "wild wild west" (Foto: Daniela)

En el templo mayor (Foto: Daniela)


Un mercado de dulces (Foto: Daniela)


Daniela, yo y José Fernando (Foto: José Fernando)

En el Torre latinoamerica


Rushhour en una ciudad de más de 20 Millones habitantes

Friday 19th of December at 5.30 am. Chris and me didn’t sleep but tried to organize our things pack our luggage, prepare some sandwiches and clean the house. Roberto got up an hour before leaving. Outside the house blew a horn: Oman was there to pick us up. His 14-years old nephew Rodrigo and him were sitting in the front, Chris, Roberto and I squeezed in the backseats. It took about 20 minutes and I was sleeping like a stone. We crossed Tequila and Tepic and after some hours (about 500 km) stopped in Mazatlán for a breakfast. Finally we saw the sea there. It was pretty hot and so we decided to go on.

We were on the road all day long and arrived at the Ciudad Obregon at night, had some Tacos (they do them with wheat flour here and not as I knew it with corn flour and they are really good) and then started looking out for a cheap place to stay for the night. After a while of cruising the city we found a nice room in the “Motel Ferrari” on the town’s end. With ashtrays glued on the tables, Kleenex on the bed’s side and a big variety of porn channels we seemed to be in one of the typical Mexican motels.

Early next morning we got up to get ready for part two. After a pretty expensive breakfast in Hermosillo we didn’t see anything but the pure desert for a while. From time to time we had to stop to either pay the toll or to pass one of the various military controls. There we always had a nice talk with the controller…

“From where?”

“Guadalajara.”

“To..?”

“Tijuana.”

… followed by a critical evil eye and a gesture to carry on. We were on the road of drugs (where many drugs are smuggled from south to the United States) and so we were treated like smugglers. In the dark of the night we passed Santa Ana and Mexicali and arrived by 11 pm at Tijuana. There we had delicious birria and some beer and then went to sleep soon.


Breakfast in Hermosillo

There was hardly any traffic



For many hours we did not see anything but desert





Lot's of cactusses



One of the military Checkpoints

The next days we spent getting to know Tijuana and its unique nightlife, went for a day of shopping to San Diego, went to the beach and to Ensenada to have some fish-tacos, looked out for the city center that did not exist and admired the prostitutes, graffiti and the litter in the streets. Tijuana is not a beautiful city but it is special and unique and it has something attractive, a charm that makes it special – even though I still cannot say what it is.

Typical Mexican typo

The cultural center of Tijuana

The first and only Chrismas-trees I could find - real needle-trees!

Tijuana's Center

Standing in the border

Visit in one of San Diego's typical Shopping Malls - Horton Plaza

The beach between Tijuana and Ensenada



In Ensenada

We had a trip on the "Linda"

Somehow reminds me a lot on the Beck's advertisement... "sail away....."

On 24th we made the way to Mexicali to spend Christmas there. The 1-million inhabitant’s frontier city in the middle of the desert has an extraordinary charm and it is really easy getting lost in it. We spent Christmas eating a lot of delicious mole, sopa verde, romeritos, filete en salsa de champignon, bacalao-paste and a lot more. The night was freezing cold but on 25th it was warm enough to stay outside in a t-shirt playing ping-pong on the new table. The next day we went to see the border, the tiny park and the chapel – to put it briefly: the attractions of the city.


Between Tijuana and Mexicali

Gorgeous food selfmade - I can hardly find any pictures not showing us eating

After some of us trying it, Anaid made it to kill the Pi
ñata "Santa" ...

... what was followed by some little family fights for sweets.

On 27th we returned to Tijuana. On the way there we stopped by on a historical important place called “El Vallecito” where they found old mural arts. We walked through the desert there, waiting for the rattle snakes to bite us, but nothing happened. The arts were incredible, though was the nature. We spent a while there before going on cruising a beautiful rocky landscape back to Tijuana. The next day we went for an antenna on the top of a hill, from where we had the most unbelievable view and got to know the technical background information of the TV- and radio-antennas.

Desert







I am glad we did not have to climb the mountains by bike.

The first and only little bit of snow we could see was in Vallecito

Rattel-snake's warnings were everywhere.

Really old paintings in Vallecito





Cruising on the border's fun side

On the antenna we had an incredible view - and a private tour explaining how this antenna worked

Watching to Tijuana and San Diego



What an unbelievable view!

Later we went for a second trip to the United States (poor Roberto had to stay in Tijuana because he forgot to renew his visa) and got to know the beautiful balboa park, the peninsula Coronado, the Mission Bay, the gaslamp district and the old town, known as the birthplace of California. The night we spent partying again.


Coronado

Skyline of San Diego





In the old town

In the old school - rules changed a bit now


Shopping - unfortunately I didn't buy those glasses.

On 30th at 10 pm we caught a bus leaving to Guaymas where a friend of Robertos parents owns a hotel. For about 10 € per night and person we spent New Year’s Eve on the sea in a touristic hotel with pool. Though the weather was good and the room cheap we stayed for another night before we made our way hitchhiking south.


We spent midnight in the sea side where we met some nice people

Only a few meters seperated us from the sea.

Beer-Sweets. Alcoholfree

Sunset



On 2nd of January we grabbed a bus to the town and then walked to the highway where we got a ride in the back of a pickup to Empalme, about 7 kilometers away from Guaymas. There we waited unluckily for about 1 ½ hours without anyone stopping. So we decided to walk the 10 kilometers to the toll road trying our luck. On the way there a van stopped.

“Where are you from?” someone shouted. Not again. In the supermarket of Guaymas people always spoke English to me as well. Won’t they ever believe that neither Chris nor I are Gringos? Roberto tried to make the best out of the situation.

“Where are you going?” he replied and asked them for a ride. As they found out soon, Germann and Roberto had been studying in the same University, and where nearly the same age. Knowing that, we all had to get to know all his family (only his mother has 13 brothers and sisters who all have kids) and a lot of others Roberto might have seen yet at University. After getting to know nearly all the inhabitants, Germann and his brother Luis decided to show us the beautiful beach. Though we had some time-pressure (we only made 7 kilometers all day long) we decided to leave soon, even though they offered us to stay at theirs place for a night. Germann and Luis gave us a ride to a gas station on the toll road and after about 30-45 Minutes Augustin stopped his van. He was actually looking for somebody to take, because he was bored on his way to the city of Navojoa, about 200 kilometers away. There he dropped us out on a 24/7-Supermarket and a gas station again at the end of the city, where we tried to get another ride. Unfortunately unsuccessfully. We were in the middle of nothing and it was freezing cold, Chris and me had a bad cold (probably of spending so many nights in Tijuana partying in the cold, or of bathing in the hotel’s pool that felt like 0,3°C) so we had no other possibility than getting a room in a cheap motel (5 porn channels and Kleenex again included).


Roberto, Luis, Germann, Chris and me


Enpalme's beach

The next morning we walked back to the gas station where we met Toño, a trucker who offered us a ride to the toll booth near Culiacan (about 330 kilometers). After a while we met a nice family who picked us up to Mazatlán. There we didn’t wait long for Roberto, another trucker who went all the way to Guadalajara in his proper 30 years old truck with the 150 years old engine. After 10 minutes – not even arriving in the city of Mazatlán, we stopped in the middle of the highway. The engine was dead. It was out of air (that was necessary for the  brakes to work on the truck) and gas and talked about broken filters. While it was quickly getting dark we found ourselves on the highway waving for other trucks to stop and help. It was about ½ hour of fear for our lifes. Roberto, the trucker, kept running on the street, a triangle reflector did not exist anyway, the truck’s lights did not work properly anymore, so we had to go to the back of the truck to light a torch and show the cars that the lane was currently occupied. Some hardly made it on the other lane. Finally another truck stopped. After fixing the worst we went on and stopped by on another gas station. It was only 500 kilometers missing to Guadalajara, taking the toll road we could make it in six hours, we thought. 12 hours and some “dusty soda” later we finally arrived.


Raite in a Pick up pulling a boat



Roberto and his 400 years old truck ...

... we were really lucky to get to know them - even though the last 500 Kilometers took us 12 hours.




28.01.2010
Estoy en la selva - en el centro de la nada. No hay señal del celular, ni telefonos publicos, pero una cabañita con 4 compudadoras.... hace mucho calor aqui - pero mucha lluvia tambien. Hoy vi las ruinas de Yaxchilan y mañana bie temprano voy a ver las de Bonampak. Hay que ver todos los sitios archeologicos en enero, porque mi credencial de la U de G esta vigente por el enero solo.
Ya vi unos lugares bien bonitos de Chiapas: Tuxtla (con zoologico y cañon), San Cristobal, Ocosingo (con Tonina), Aguas Azul, Misol-ha, Palenque (Pueblo y Ruinas) y Yaxchilan y unos en Oaxaca. En total me encanta mi viaje. Los proximos dias voy a ver las Guacamayas y Montebello y si hay tiempo El chiflon, Guatemala y uno o dos lugarcitos mas de cual olvide los nombres. Eso para ahora. Regresando voy a escribir mas. Voy a estar en Gdl como por el 8 por la mañana creo.. a ver.




Reise nach Oaxaca und Chiapas
Travel to Oaxaca and Chiapas
Viaje a Oaxaca y Chiapas

Mitte Januar 2010. Das Wetter in Guadalajara hält sich so in Grenzen, es ist früh morgens und ich sitze im Bus zur Alcalde, der Hauptstraße des Zentrums.

Von der mexikanischen Pünktlichkeit (40 Minuten zu spät) verstehen Zaira und Bernardo nichts, sie haben schon eine Weile auf mich gewartet. Gemeinsam hieven wir unsere überdimensionalen Rucksäcke in das Innere eines Stadtbusses und fahren zum Stadtrand. Dort laufen wir ein wenig die Autobahn entlang, bis wir jemanden finden, der gewillt ist, uns ein Stück mitzunehmen. Auf der Ladefläche eines Pick Ups startet unsere windig kalte Fahrt in Richtung DF (Distrito Federal, spanisch für Mexiko City). Nachdem wir eine Zeit lang fuhren, hält der Fahrer an. Wir stehen an einer Abfahrt. Vereinzelt brausen Autos an uns vorbei. Keine Haltebucht in Sicht und auch sonst nichts.

„So, hier muss ich raus, ich fahre in ein Dorf hier in der Nähe, soll ich euch hier rauslassen, damit ihr einen Raite auf der Autobahn kriegt oder wollt ihr mitkommen?“

Noch ein LKW rast im Spitzentempo an uns vorbei, ans Abbremsen denkt hier keiner.

„Vielleicht kommen wir doch besser mit“, entscheiden wir.

In Quiringuichago gibt es eine Hauptstraße, ein paar Häuser und eine Tankstelle, an der kein Schwein hält, dennoch halten wir diese für die beste Option. Wir bemühen uns eine Zeit lang um einen weiteren Raite, sehen aber bald ein, dass das Unterfangen zwecklos ist und laufen ein Stück zurück. Bald kommt uns ein Bus entgegen, in dem wir für 20 Pesos in die nächste Stadt La Piedad fahren. Wir schlafen und Zairas Anti-Mückenspray macht sich in seiner porösen Plastiktüte selbstständig, sodass unsere Taschen die nächsten drei Wochen von den Mücken gemieden werden. In La Piedad angekommen fragen wir uns nach der Autobahn durch, denn hier verläuft ebenfalls eine, die nach DF führt. Schnell kommen wir an der Mautstelle an und es dauert keine drei Minuten, bis jemand anhält. Ein forscher LKW-Fahrer klettert aufs Dach, um unsere Rucksäcke notdürftig darauf festzubinden.

„Dich muss man wohl auch bezahlen, damit du mal sprichst, hm?“ brummt er mir zu. Ich befinde mich in einem Dämmerzustand zwischen Schlaf und Wach sein Unser Fahrer liebt es, uns mit unangenehmen Fragen zu bombardieren und ist ein großer Fan von doppeldeutigen Aussagen. Trotzdem war die Fahrt lustig und kurz vor DF lässt er uns raus. Für weitere 5 Peso fahren wir bis zur ersten Metrostation und von dort aus weiter bis zur Colonia Roma, wo Freunde von mir wohnen, bei denen schon Chris und Eva auf uns warten.

Am nächsten Morgen kommt auch Quique dazu und nachdem alle geduscht, gefrühstückt und gepackt haben, ziehen wir gegen Mittag los.

Mit der Metro geht es zum Busbahnhof und von da aus im Bus nach Puebla, denn der Südostteil der Stadt sei zum Trampen viel zu gefährlich, sagten die anderen. In Puebla dauert es wieder lange, bis alle gegessen haben, nochmal auf dem Klo waren oder herausgefunden wurde, wo sich die Autobahn befindet. Wir laufen hin und können uns nicht einigen, wo wir die beste Tramp-Position haben, so bleiben Quique, Eva und Chris an einem Tope (Geschwindigkeitsbegrenzhubbel) am Anfang des Autobahn- und Landstraßenkreuzes stehen und Zaira, Bernardo und ich laufen die Straße entlang in Richtung Autobahn nach Oaxaca. Anhalten tut keiner, so gönnen wir uns einen fünf-Peso-Bus bis zur nächsten Mautstelle. Dort angekommen treffen wir auf „Equipo B“, wie wir die anderen drei getauft haben. Sie haben sehr schnell einen sehr kurzen Raite bekommen und sind dann den Rest der Strecke mit dem Taxi gefahren. Zaira und ich tanzen herum, albern und singen ein wenig auf der Straße und bald hält ein netter Señor, der uns bis nach Tehuacán mitnimmt. Auch er fragt, ob er uns an der Ausfahrt rauslassen oder mit in die Stadt nehmen soll. Ich tendiere für die Ausfahrt, denn hier gibt es eine weitere Mautstelle und zur Not abgelegene Grünflächen zum zelten, aber die anderen wollen in die Stadt.

 

Dort angekommen teilen wir uns in drei Zweiergruppen auf. Chris und ich bleiben bei den Rucksäcken und die anderen laufen los und versuchen, günstige Unterkünfte zu finden. Nach einer halben Stunde sind wir wieder vereint. Zaira erzählt, dass wir umsonst in einer Kirche übernachten können, wo es sogar Frühstück gäbe. Wir laufen hin. Von einer Kirche sehe ich nichts, aber eine Art Hostel namens San Francisco. Wir gehen rein, geben unsere Namen an, müssen die Rucksäcke draußen im Gemeinschaftsraum lassen. Dann werden wir in die getrennten Schlafsäcke geführt und hier erweist sich als wahr, was wir alle befürchtet hatten: Wir sind in einem Armenhaus gelandet! Im 9-Bett-Frauenraum sind drei Betten mit schlafenden Frauen belegt, bei den Männern etwa 40 von 45. Quique geht mit Kamera und Sonnenbrille rein, Eva fragt, ob wir nicht noch was trinken gehen wollen und alle anderen im Raum sind froh, dass die ein paar Schuhe ihr Eigen nennen können. Die Stimmung ist gedrückt, als wir nach dem „Einchecken“ noch etwas essen. Wir reden über die Situation, fühlen uns sehr fehl am Platze, wollen niemandem, der ihn nötiger braucht, einen Platz wegnehmen und beschließen, uns lieber etwas anderes zu suchen. So landen wir für 75 Pesos pro Nase in einem kleinen aber netten Hotel.

 

 

The following morning the owner’s son offers us a ride back to the toll station at 8 am. There we decide better to go on in teams because the possibilities finding space for all of us are not too good. Team A is full of motivation again, while team B enjoys its breakfast. Anyway, it takes a while until a nice señor stops. In the back of his car he carries 12.000 magazines and on top of all of them Zaira takes her seat, while Bernardo and I sit down next to the driver. We cross a beautiful nature reserve and stop to take some pictures. Later the driver invites us for some soup and kicks us off in the suburbs of Oaxaca. Another bus takes us to the bus station and from there it is only a 10-Minutes walk to the Zocalo, where we wanted to meet Team B. They had already arrived. It took us all the afternoon to find out what to do and where to stay, because I did not want to spend more money on hostels because I did not carry my tent just for fun. The others did not want to spend the night outside the city, so we had to find a place for tents inside the city. Unsuccessfully we asked in several hostels and when we knew that there was no chance it was already too late to look for places outside the city. So we stayed in a hostel and spent 100 Pesos each for the night. I was really afraid I wouldn’t make it far spending so much money. At night we watched the oldest and expensive hotel, the cathedral, some of the pedestrian’s streets and the Zocalo, where we met a band playing the Marimba (a huge wooden Xylophone). We danced, had some beer and just enjoyed ourselves. What a night.



 

The next morning we wanted to see the ruins of Monte Alban, set very close to Oaxaca. We entered a bus that played very loud some bad old 90’s-Techno. The driver’s helper stood in the open entrance-door shouting “Monte Albaaaaaaaaan!” what originally sounded like “Leute wollt ihr miiiiiiit?” (People you wanna come with us?)

After a while we stopped in the middle of a hill: end station. After walking a bit through the slum-like suburb we found some other people waiting for the following bus all up to the ruins. Chris and I decided to walk; they said it was about 10 Minutes walking. After about 15 Minutes we decided to change to the footpath up the hill, not knowing where it would end. We walked about an hour straight upstairs and then finally arrived on 2000 meters above sea level where we found the ruins. Monte Alban was the Zapotec Capital and there are still many ruins left in good preservation. We spent the day walking there, met Quique and Eva and later in the place’s museum also Bernardo and Zaira.

Without a breakfast we were really hungry, so we decided to go to the market. There it was usual to buy everything single from different vendors: Tortillas, meat, limes, salsas, cut tomato and onion and so on and then we had a delicious meal in the smoky market hall.

 






 

 

A las ocho de la noche teniamos que regresar por el hostal para recoger nuestras mochilas. En la noche antes platicamos con dos chicos y el uno nos ha dado el numero de telefono de un amigo suyo que renta cuartos a estudiantes de la escuela de español. Entonces lo llamamos a preguntarlo si nos permite acampar en su jardin por una noche. Equipo B se queria quedar en el hostal de todos modos y Zaira, Bernardo y yo nos fuimos a la gasolinera donde nos encontramos con Saul. Nos dio raite a su casa y nos he ofrecido de usar la cocina, tomar algo, cocinar und te, hacer todo lo que queremos. El, por la noche, se fue a una fiesta y nosotros lavamos nuestra ropa, nos bañamos con agua caliente, hicimos mucho té y nos sentamos al balcon para jugar shithead. Saul es muy amable y nos cobra la mitad del precio del hostal.

La proxima mañana Saul, Stephanie (una de los extranjeras que viven en su casa), Bernardo, Zaira y yo nos fuimos a un pueblo cerca de Mitla para desayunar. Caminamos por todo el mercado grandisimo hasta que nos quedemos en una mesa para comer todos nuestros frutas que nunca he visto en mi vida y para comer sopa de barbacoa bien rico con chile sal,limon y muchos tortillas. El mercado estaba super chingon, alla venden todo, ropa, cosmetica, comida, flores, electrodomésticos de la cocina pero tambien gallinas vivas con los pirenas bridado para quien sabe quanto tiempo.

Desde alla no faltaba mucho hasta Mitla, donde nos encontramos con el “equipo B” y Saul nos dio otra raite hasta alla. Las ruinas de Mitla estan bien interesante, muchos de los edificios los una mezcla de los estilos mixtecos y zapotecos y tambien me gusto el pueblo.


De alla encontramos un taxi colectivo con cual nos fuimos todo hasta arriba de “Hierve del agua”. El “taxi” tenia quatro sillas a dentro y muchas atras para sentarse en el superficie de carga abierto. El polvo estaba bien fuerte pero nuestro lugar alla sirvio bien como mirador porque fuimos mas y mas arriba y cruzamos muchos lugares bien bonitos. Despues de una hora salimos en hierve de agua. Pagamos 30 Pesos por cada casa de acampar, constuimos las casas y nos fuimos por abajo donde estaban unas albercas naturales y adeamas unas cascadas petrificadas, formadas por carbonato de calcio. Desde la fuente chicita se va un arroyo chicito por la alberca y desde alla sale el agua por abajo, lentemente formando otra cascada petrificada. Que lugar bonito!

Por la noche nos compramos tostadas, frijoles, queso, rajas y salsa y los comimos calentado por la fogata. Luego tomamos mezcal (con oruga!) y jugamos juegos hasta que los perros estuvieran demasiado pegados que nos fuimos a “la cama”.






La proxima mañana me levante temprano y todos nosotros fuimos a ver las cascadas y las albercas. Nos quedamos alla por un ratito y yo me fui a caminar un pocito. Estaba grandioso. Camine por arriba y abajo para horas y horas y nunca acabe ver las diferentes cascadas de diferentes angulos. Cuando casi me perdi encontre el camino por el regreso. Wow.






Por la tarde regresamos a la carretera y buscamos otro raite dirección Salina Cruz. En frente de una gasolinera encontramos a Chelius y Edgar de DF, que ya caminaron por 10 kilometros buscando un raite. Zaira y yo bailamos otra vez y – bamm – alguien paro. Subimos todos nosotros siete (Bernardo ya se fue en la mañana) y fuimos con el señor hasta el proximo pueblo. Alla comimos y pedimos otro raite. Encontramos un carro, de origen hecho para animales, con suficiente espacio para todos nosotros hasta Salina Cruz. Ibamos por una calle lleno de curvas y Zaira y yo estuvimos apunto de vomitar. A los otros no les gusta el raite tanto tampoco. De todos modos llegamos bien feliz en Salina Cruz. Alla tomamos un camion que nos trajo a la playa. Estaban muchos perros alla pero en frente de la playa encontramos una tienda y el dueño nos ofrecio quedarnos en la playa y usar sus baños – por este servicio nos compramos unas cervezas en su tienda.

 

 

Am nächsten Morgen fahren wir zurück in die Stadt. Der Strand war nicht gerade schön und hinter stehenden dreckigen Lagunen können wir kaum das Meer ausmachen. Nach einem Internetbesuch suchen wir nach einem Bus, der uns nach Juchitán bringen soll. Dort laufen wir bis zur Landstraße, wo wir nochmals einen Pick-Up-Fahrer von unserer netten Anwesenheit in seinem Auto überzeugen können. Roman fährt und fährt und landet auf den staubigsten Straßen der Welt. Aus irgendeinem Grund ist diese irgendwann gesperrt und nach etwa drei Stunden Warterei in der prallen Sonne beschließen wir, umzukehren und einen recht langen Umweg um die gesperrte Stelle zu fahren. Über noch staubigere Straßen geht es bis in ein kleines Dörfchen namens San Pedro Tapanatepec, wo Zaira, Chris, Eva und Quique einen Bus die Küste entlang nehmen und ich mit Chelius und Edgar auf Roman warte, der uns noch mit nach Tuxtla nimmt, wo er wohnt. Da wir erst nach Mitternacht ankommen, lädt er uns ein, bei ihm zu Haus auf dem Fußboden zu schlafen. Das Angebot nehmen wir dankbar an.

Am nächsten Morgen bietet uns Roman ein Frühstück an und sagt, wenn wir wollen können wir gerne noch eine weitere Nacht in seinem Haus bleiben. Wir freuen uns sehr und laufen erstmal zum Zoo. Eintritt: $20. Studenten: $10. Ausländer: $60. Die sind wohl nicht ganz dicht. Ich bin empört. Aber da ich im Endeffekt weniger zahle, als Edgar, beschäftigt mich dieses Thema nicht sonderlich lange. Im Zoo von Tuxtla werden nur Tiere (teils frei lebend) gehalten, die auch im Bundesstaat Chiapas leben. Als ich nach Krokodilen, Schlangen, Spinnen, Pumas und Jaguaren auch ein paar kuschelig niedliche Tiere entdecke, ist mir gleich nicht mehr ganz so mulmig zumute. Wir nehmen einen Bus ins Zentrum, wo wir uns mit Freunden von den beiden treffen, die uns einen Raite zu den Ausblickspunkten zum berühmten Cañon de Sumidero gaben. Den Abend verbringen wir am Zocalo, wo ein Marimba-Konzert stattfindet.






 

Am nächsten Tag fahren wir mit dem Bus nach San Cristóbal de las Casas. Dort treffe ich mich mittags mit Robertos Onkel und Tante und deren Kindern, wo ich auch bleiben kann. Zwei Nächte bleibe ich in dem wunderschönen Örtchen, treffe mich noch mit den Jungs und später auch mit den anderen, die schon von ihrer Strandtour zurück sind. Dann geht es weiter ins Herz Chiapas‘.








 

 

 

I take the bus up to Ocosingo to get to the ruins of Toniná. On the town’s entrance I ask the driver to kick me off the closest place to Toniná. He grumbles something drives on. In the middle of nothing we stop. Though the busses to Toniná leave from a market and nobody can tell me how to get there, I decide to walk. After two hours of walking I finally make it to a sign: “Goodbye in Ocosingo!”. I am depressed. Another ten minutes later another sign: “Toniná 2: 10 kilometers”. Are there two places called Toniná? Is the first one closer? After another while I can finally see a bus that takes me the last about seven kilometers there. When I arrive it is late yet and I only have half an hour to see the ruins. Though I don’t pay entrance fee with my Student’s ID, I enter. Herman, the tourist’s guide, presents me to some friends who live close to the ruins. They offer me to build my tent in their garden. The kids are happy to play in my tent and I eat two tacos they offered me. That was my breakfast and I was really hungry. The following day I wake up at 4am because the chicken and dogs won’t shut up. At 8am the park opens and I enter. I take some time to see everything, meet Herman again, who shows me the inside of a labyrinth. He already appeared me strange yesterday when he sat down with me alone and offered me beer and more beer until I preferred to go to sleep at 8pm, but today he kept talking equivocated so I preferred to thank him politely (one traveling alone should better not make any enemies) and leave.











In the parking I waited for people leaving the place to give me a ride, but though I entered so early, nobody left yet. I met Richard from the USA who gave me a ride in the taxi he offered, so I could get a ride from the town’s end. But instead he also offered me a ride in a colectivo-bus. So I left the bus on the crossroad to Agua Azul and got a short nice ride from a couple from DF for the last kilometers. It was hot and the place was crowded. The waterfalls were amazing. I talked to many other tourists and found a nice place to stay at for the night, camping next to two Argentinean girls. In the night it started raining and I decided to stay until it stopped and my tent dried. So I made my way up to “boca del agua”, the source. On the way I met Santiago, an indigenous boy, who walked with me and showed me the ways the other tourists cannot find. On the way back we ate some sugarcane we got from the jungle. It was great and even the rain had stopped.












I packed my things and walked up to the streets. On the way up rain started again, a lot heavier than before. After a while I got a raite with a Korean traveller’s group, guided by Miguel from DF and Elena, originally Korean, but living in DF. She translated for the rest of the group. On the way to Palenque we stopped for the huge waterfalls of Misol-Ha and then made our way to Palenque. Again it was pretty late to enter, but though there was an hour left and it was still raining (I was still wet anyway), I entered. It looked great there: old ruins that had not been discovered for many years, surrounded by the jungle. For the night I stayed in a kind of camping in the jungle, where I got to know Erica from Sweden with whom I played shithead and Eggnollen all night long. The next day we entered the ruins again and then made our way to the village. There I wanted to find out, how to get to Bonampak. A man warned us not to go with any busses, not even with first class busses, but to book a tour. I bet he owned an office, offering tours. For a while we believed in him, but then we made our way to the second class bus station. At night we had some caguamas (beer-bottles of one liter) in the “camping”, played cards and listened to the live alternative music.
















 

 





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